Top rope vs belay vs lead climbing reddit. Don't stress about the diameter.
Top rope vs belay vs lead climbing reddit For those who prefer the older versions, how do you feed the rope when lead belaying? I love the fact with the plus that I can increase the cam tension by putting it in lead mode, and therefore feed rope easily the same as any tube device, without having to move my hand to use my thumb to hold down the cam. I was wondering if it is better to learn lead belay on an ATC and later transition to a grigri or just go strait to belaying with a grigri? I will be learning in a gym with no intent to climb multi pitch outdoor or anything yet. The belayer does not climb while belaying. With lead climbing, the rope starts at the bottom of the climb, with one end tied to the climber and the belayer attaching a short length away from that. When you’re ready to take the plunge, see if your local climbing gym offers a lead climbing class. Jan 4, 2024 · Top rope climbing is a beginner-friendly style of climbing where the rope runs from the climber's harness up to an anchor system at the top of the route and back down to the belayer on the ground. Nov 6, 2023 · 5 Main Differences Between Lead Climbing vs Top Rope Below are the five main differences between lead climbing vs top rope climbing. I think it’s natural to fear auto belays, especially as they feel so alien when you’ve been used to having a partner belay you. I'm a year into climbing (gym, top rope) and recently learned and tested so I can lead climb at my gym. The carabiner is incorrectly loaded (triaxially) when you put it through the tie in points, so use the belay loop. Aug 21, 2023 · Sport climbing and top rope climbing are two different styles of rock climbing. . The problem? I become nearly paralyzed with anxiety about actually climbing lead routes. I wasn’t a huge fan. You don't need to worry about a single point of failure with the belay loop. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Worse than a grigri as a progress capture for ascending a fixed line or as a grillion. However, the thrill and excitement of lead climbing, with its key differences such as rope placement, gear requirements, physical demands, fall distance, and belay technique, can make the See full list on rei. This post goes over the exact differences and the gear used. Belay Technique One of the primary differences regarding lead climbing and top rope is how essential your belayer is when lead climbing. Sometimes, I clove in tight and belay off my rope tie in loop, sometimes I re-direct, occasionally I belay directly off the anchor. 6. As the climber ascends, the belayer, who is positioned at the bottom, offers support and takes up the While lowering, the rope is sliding through the anchor. Paying out slack is smooth once you get it down, so I recommend for you to practice lead belaying in the gym before you head outside with it. Dec 13, 2023 · Manual braking belay devices like the ATC require the belayer to be at the top of their game, never removing their hand from the brake line while in use. Hi, I'm just curious to know which belay devices you (as a climber) prefer for sport climbing? I had no problem with my belayers having either an ATC or an assisted braking device such as Grigri, ATC pilot etc as long as the belayer feels safe and competent. Just make sure you always 100% double and triple check you’re clipped in properly before climbing and you’ll be fine. And yes we are scared of falling. It will also feel more comfortable/less awkward when you fall on the belay loop vs the tie in points. 9, but have been wondering lately; Should I stick with top rope, or is it better to "cross train" on bouldering problems? I top rope at 5. When climbing outdoors, wear a helmet to Grigri's vs ATCs: This really grinds my gears As someone who learned to lead belay using an ATC first, and who for a while felt much more comfortable using an ATC over a Grigri, all climbers should be more comfortable using a Grigri. 8 - 5. The GriGri Plus comes with a learning curve and its anti-panic function doesn’t mix well with thick gym ropes, so therefore is not something I would recommend. Dec 4, 2022 · Safety Considerations Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. trueSo the factors that make a rope nicer: Thinner. It’s like anything with climbing on ropes, you just need to learn to trust the gear. Use the internet for other videos and tutorials (note–you may see various lead climbing/belaying methods). I have only gone bouldering and today I tried auto belay for the first time. Every company My local gym requires PBUS (pull brake under slide) technique for top rope belaying, but they're totally fine with tunnel method for lead belaying. These bolts take the force and friction in the event of a fall, though more force will be translated to the belay if the If you simply want to get outside, learn how to set up a proper top-rope and simply TR things until you are with someone who can truly teach lead climbing. Jul 29, 2024 · They weren’t that far off the finished model, which I’ve been testing since early June, for lead belaying and toproping on ropes around 9mm in diameter, and single-line rappelling and ascent on 10mm and 11mm static lines. com Jun 29, 2025 · Curious about top rope vs auto belay climbing? Learn the core similarities, differences, and which style is right for your next climb in this detailed guide. This is the whole reason for the belay loop. Feb 12, 2018 · You want to go climb at an indoor climbing gym but aren't sure what you need to know. Have tried the original Jul, but it handled the thick gym ropes so poorly I'd almost get pumped belaying and blocked the rope too much for my taste. I have been strictly top rope so far and have gotten up to 5. Sep 2, 2015 · In a nutshell: Top rope and lead climbing are methods for protecting a climb. As you approach 9. Dec 27, 2022 · Start watching climbers at the gym! Note which ones are top-roping and lead belaying, and feel free to ask questions to climbers and staff. What’s your opinion on lead vs top rope in regards to claiming grades? I was introduced into the sport by very proficient and experienced climbers who held the attitude that only leading was “real” climbing. Should you need to ascend a rope, you will need friction hitches, so why not rappel with one? I outweigh my partner, so he uses assisted-braking to belay me from his harness, but switches to an ATC Guide to belay from an anchor or rappel. Outdoor Climbing Ice and Mixed Climbing Final Thoughts Frequently Asked Questions Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Sport climbing involves lead climbing, where the climber ascends the route while clipping into fixed anchors (bolts) along the way. Don't stress about the diameter. Dec 22, 2022 · Key Specs of the Grigri Variations of the Grigri Pros and Cons of the Grigri Grigri vs. Also watch for abrasion, that’s what actually kills ropes. When sport climbing, the climber attaches the rope to fixed anchors (bolts) as he/she ascends. I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. With the weight of a climber on the rope, repeated lowering causes wear on the anchor. 11-, trad 5. However, of all the climbing styles one can partake in, top-roping is typically safer. Just did my first top rope solo, would love to get some feedback on the system I used. I also kept getting smacked in the face and chest with the carabiner (is that what it’s called?). Prefer lowering top rope on ATC as well, gives me a more direct control (the GriGri handle is pretty sensitive). 3a) From the bottom, I belay off my belay loop with the ATC and two carabiners O&O 3b) From the top, it depends on the situation and belay stance/anchors. The real distinction between top roping and lead climbing is the belay system used. Top roping is a more manageable form of rock climbing and can be taught in as little as fifteen minutes to anyone Roped climbing in any form takes more equipment- harness, rope, helmet, belay device and eventually QuickDraws and stuff to make anchors if you are going to sport or top rope outside. Once you do get to the point where you can lead, grab the basics: 10-12 quickdraws 1-2 bail bieners 2 rap rings PAS 60-70m climbing rope locking carabiners atc/grigri Top Rope: Shown in the photo above, top rope climbing requires prior knowledge and experience of the follow through figure 8 knot and the GriGri belay device, which are attached to all top ropes in our facilities. I would assume that anyone who has a grigri hanging off their harness would know how to use it, but if they didn’t, it’s definitely on them to tell you that before they start belaying you with it. Hi! Just started climbing, and I've only done top rope and bouldering so far, but in all of the professional climbing I've seen, everyone is climbing lead. 11-5. ATC: Which Device is Best for You? Top Rope Climbing and Belaying Lead Climbing and Belaying Multi-Pitch Climbing and Belaying Rappelling Beginner vs. According to the charts I have seen this all lines up (the trad downgrade being a purely fear thing which I’m working on). I've used all but the Jul2 for lead belaying and ended up buying a Smart. Generally if you’re new to lead climbing you don’t fully understand how more slack = less impact (the impact gets applied to system slower and more evenly spread out through out the system). I forced myself to do some today but didn't leave feeling any better about it--actually managed to psych myself out on a top rope route after that. This is sometimes called a static vs dynamic belay point, top rope is static, leading is dynamic. If you plan on rope climbing, learn what to expect to pass a belay test. Sep 5, 2017 · Is this the case? Are top rope belays inherently simpler and is the potential for a serious accident much lower than with a lead belay? Further, in the context and risk of an entire climb, what part does the extra complexity (if any) of belaying a lead vs top roped climber play in the overall safety of climbers? Then ask the gym if they'll let you use a lead rope to do mock leads for practice (climb on an auto-belay or top-rope, but take a lead rope with you and clip as you go). However, I am looking to get into lead climbing and potentially start going outside once I'm comfortable with the basics of lead (and when New England winter allows it lol). Skinny ropes of all designations are fine for alpine climbing, just understand that you might have to retire the rope if you actually whip (worst case scenario). Having someone belay with a device they’ve never used before and no Apr 24, 2023 · An auto belay is a mechanical device that is used in rock climbing to provide an effective and efficient way of lowering a climber to the ground after they have completed their climb. This is nice because with the GriGri, the only time I'm really worried about a new climber making a mistake is during lowering. However, after a few falls I became more anxious and no longer wanted my belayer to use an unassisted belay device in case he/she fainted Belayer with top rope) lead climbing and belaying and multiple falls from different hights for 75€ (students) / 100 € everyone else It is mandatory to know how to belay dynamic with your body and that you learned to fall from above the last clip Jun 14, 2021 · Just staring off climbing and wondering, what’s the difference between top rope and lead climbing? What you need to learn the lingo! Nov 27, 2023 · This article compares top rope and lead climbing, discussing the differences in technique, equipment, mental and physical challenges, and risk. Master belaying under the guidance of a veteran climber or professional guide. May 22, 2025 · Both top-rope and lead climbing fall under the umbrella of rope climbing, but the transition between the two can be daunting and tricky to navigate. This creates a continuous loop that protects the climber in case of a fall. They vary in terms of techniques, equipment, and physical and mental demands. A traditional belay system involves hardware at the top of the climbing wall that secures the safety rope. The home of Climbing on reddit. First, visualize a top rope belay system. 12a max, sport lead 5. However I would belay off the master point of the anchor over/at the edge to maintain visual with my climber. 9. The GriGri + is a belay device best suited for very new climbers belaying on top rope. It’s more affordable, lighter in weight, and does an exceptional job at both top-rope and lead belaying. This makes lead climbing both more dangerous and more difficult. Currently I can only belay top rope, but I will take a lead course in a few weeks. The climber, who doesn’t need to think about belaying … just climbs! The rope that connects the climber to the belayer. Just wondering what everyone else’s I'm looking to buy my first belay device. The anchor, which is a technical climbing term for a secure attachment of the rope to the rock, usually at the top of the route. 2 and thinner, ropes will last just as long used as a personal rope of a climbing guide, but the weekend warrior that isn't taking as specific care of them will find that it's going to get worn and soft and fuzzy much faster. Think of this differently. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. Does anyone have experience with the Pinch? How does it feel compared to the Grigri? With top rope climbing, the anchor is at the top of the climb, with the rope going down one side to the belayer, and the other side to the climber. I really liked the Grigri for top roping. The modes is noticeable because it does cam a LOT less when its in lead mode verses when it's a in top rope mode. Same as a grigri for toprope belaying and belaying from above. Why is this? Isn't top rope a little safer, as there basically aren't falls? As for belaying I would personally top rope on the last climb and top out. Asking someone to belay you with a grigri is totally fine. The rope goes from the climber to the top anchor and then down to you (the belayer). The belay point for a top rope can be either anchored to the groud or not (normally is) but for leading the belay point should not be anchored as this gives the climber a softer fall. 1. I am going to go for my lead rope certification within the next month hopefully and I was wondering about everyone's opinions on using an ATC or GriGri or any other belay device for lead climbing. Let's say a route is set at a certain difficulty for top rope. Recently within the past two months I have gotten into top rope climbing and I can confidently climbing 5. A couple of months just before I started rope climbing (had only been bouldering for a few years prior) there was an incident in another gym where the auto belay failed and the person fell to their death. The anchor takes the force and friction of a fall. I wasn't sure if there was a good rule of thumb about lead climbing adding a certain amount of grades of difficulty or not. They eliminate the need for a climbing partner who belays the climber, belaying is manually controlling the rope to hold the climber… First rope + lead/sport gear purchase advice I climbing mostly at the gym but my target is outdoor, I just got lead verified and am looking to get some gear, I am cost conscious but also completely obsessed with climbing. Better for lead belay. I'm pretty sure that there's nothing wrong with using a Gri-Gri for lead, as you can see it in use in most Sharma and Ondra videos :) I prefer the ATC myself, as I'm not comfortable with using the GriGri for belaying a lead climber. I’m sure it takes some getting used to but I felt like the rope was pulling/holding me up some, so it wasn’t as good of a work out as bouldering. It functions just like a GriGri, but it has a panic handle. 5 isn't better than 9. With the G+ that can be mitigated. 10+/5. 9, and boulder at V3 with the occasional V4. Jun 19, 2023 · Here’s what I think: The standard GriGri is the best fit for most climbers. Rappelling keeps the rope static, so no friction wearing down the metal. Advanced Climbers Gym vs. Understand the differences and advantages today. However, even top-roping can lead to serious injury and catastrophic accidents without the correct safety precautions. I use an ATC-Guide. I understand the differences between top rope and lead belaying, but what are the differences for the climbing in terms of technique and physical challenges? 205 votes, 47 comments. End of story. 8/5. I think I'd only prefer static rope for top rope soloing, and even that is theoretical because in order for me to get the top rope up I first have to lead rope solo up there and therefore I'll still end up top roping on dynamic rope. Assisted braking devices like the GriGri are designed to clamp down on the rope to help the belayer arrest a fall, which can add a layer of security but some argue that the device can make the Top rope vs lead climbing - We look at what top roping is and what lead climbing is, whilst considering how they are similar and different. PBUS for taking in slack on lead is just too many movements and you never want to short rope your climber because you're fiddling around with PBUS. That rope is connected to the climber and a belayer (or multiple belayers) who controls the rope and pulls in slack as the climber ascends and slowly releases slack to lower the climber to the safety mats after the climb. So, what’s the difference between top roping and lead climbing? Top roping you’re supported from above, while lead climbing you’re always above your rope. At a minimum I think I will need a rope and a rope bag, my main question is should I get a 60m vs a 35/40m rope? Feb 13, 2024 · Both lead climbing and top rope climbing have their unique techniques and benefits. 274 votes, 101 comments. Could lead climbing that same route increase its grade in theory? In my gym there are walls where you can climb top rope or lead with the permadraws along the same routes. Mostly I lead on double ropes. Hello! I've been climbing for about 2 years now, but over the past 3 months have been going on a regular basis and getting more serious about it. 11+ confidently in a gym setting. I've seen the Edelrid Pinch and love the fact that you can clip it directly to the belay loop. Knowing how to belay with multiple devices is an asset.