Full crimp vs half crimp weight. Some crimping positions are safer than others.

Full crimp vs half crimp weight Feb 24, 2023 · While grip position may vary based on your goals, to protect against injury, train the half-crimp/semi-crimp position—without your thumb (right photo). Usually this is a slightly lower risk grip position to train. Jun 22, 2024 · The internet did not enjoy watching me full crimp pinches. If you're just starting out then yes, you should focus on climbing open handed as much as possible since the connective tissues in your fingers aren't yet strong enough to handle the added stress of harder crimping. Many sources don't pay significant attention to the position of the index finger, while others claim that it's critical for your progress. Important Tip: Crimp holds primarily engage the fingertips, so proper finger placement is crucial. Oct 31, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Oct 29, 2020 · Early climbing research has shown that the full crimp position puts the most stress (or force) through your pulleys and tendons when compared to other standard grips like half crimp and open hand. The full-crimp hand position should be reserved for those difficult crimp sequences where maximum stability is required. Jan 9, 2023 · Which is ironic considering our entire channel is literally devoted to… the exact opposite. Jul 13, 2021 · There are two main types of crimping in rock climbing: the full-crimp grip and half-crimp. This grip offers a balance of strength and flexibility, crucial for handling holds that are neither too large nor too small. com Sep 27, 2024 · To perform a full crimp, do a half crimp, then wrap the thumb on top of your index finger. Full crimp The half crimp grip is best used for climbing along surfaces with small holds and narrow edges. May 10, 2022 · The majority of new climbers don’t see the point in full-crimping, and many ask whether they should bother to use this grip seeing as the half-crimp feels stronger and more comfortable. When I first started rock climbing, everything seemed so intimidating. Full crimp is trained second to ensure you’re warmed up for it. between open hand and half crimp; it is neither. Full crimping and more aggressive angles in DIP/PIP joints puts a bit more pressure on the pulleys compared to open hand or strick half crimp. Also training in a half crimp position is generally considered the most effective. half-crimp: Do climbers assume differences in their own maximal finger strength that do not exist? Carla Zihlmann1, Paul Ritsche2, Andri Feldmann3, Lisa Reissner4, Martin Keller2, Peter Wolf1 With hangboarding, for example, you can train half crimps which are safer than full crimps and engage the muscle positions used in full crimp as well as open handed. In bouldering, a "Half Crimp" is a hand grip position used on small holds. You can train each grip type: open-hand crimp, half-crimp, and full-crimp. Closed crimps are preferred over full crimps. Full Crimp and Half Crimp are two different ways of holding your hand while chopping or slicing ingredients. Jan 19, 2021 · Four-fingers Full-crimp Version 1: Pinky Extended This hand position is defined by the thumb meeting the pointer finger at the thumb’s most extended point of articulation. The fact that the thumb is on top doesn't change all that much to the forces at play and load on the pulleys, as shown by several studies. This closes the hand shape, allowing you to generate more force when crimping. The fingers are bent at the first joint, creating a 90-degree angle, with the thumb pressing on the index finger for additional support. I had to take a deep breath and Hang data for 20mm ~7-10 sec: -my fuller "half crimp": ~45lbs -3 finger drag: ~25lbs -"true" half crimp: less than 20 lbs I recently started training 3 finger drag after I noticed it was significantly weaker. Advantages: The half crimp provides a balance between strength and strain on the fingers, making it somewhat safer than the full crimp for prolonged use. Once you've built up that tendon strength (after years of So you have one person practicing the full hand crimp too often and getting injured, and another person who is mistakenly identifying their closed hand crimp as full and doing fine. To summarize, the importance of using the strict half crimp form while Arm-Lifting and hangboarding is still debatable. Half crimp will improve your full crimp strength. significantly stronger in open crimp vs half crimp, better to focus on half crimp? started max weight hangs, my open crimp on 20mm is body weight + 50% for close to 8 sec, but half crimp i can only hang with +20% ish. Full crimping maximizes your contact with the hold, but it places enormous stress on your tendons. half crimp and 4) are both full crimps. Crimping is commonly broken into three different grip types based on the angle of your fingers and the location of your thumbs called full, half and open crimp. See full list on climbing. (Like a full crimp without the thumb. Some crimping positions are safer than others. That is known as the full crimp. Given the huge discrepancy between my half-crimp and closed crimp, what is a suitable (and safe) way to train the closed crimp? For reference, I also have a super short pinky, so adding the thumb would put extra strain on my wrists, as I have to torque my wrist CW to compensate. The second, much less risky than a full crimp, is the half crimp. Robustness of physical structures in hand/forearm 3. Crimp holds are divided into three different types: full crimp, half crimp, and open hand. There is an avalanche of misinformation on the internet vilifying crimping, and especially full crimping, as completely unnecessary and dangerous, whether due to misinterpretation of research or their own subjective experiences. Feb 2, 2025 · Climbers are more concerned with grip technique than adjusting body weight properly. I have climbing partners with larger hands who seem almost afraid to crimp, going back and forth through deciding "not use it". What to know Break-down complete, we can begin to understand finger strength as a concept. I spent the last 40 days forcing myself to get better at the half and open crimp to improve my technique and strength and share my Learning how to incorporate the full crimp into my training for climbing has helped me grow immensely as a climber. There are three different crimp grips, the open hand grip, half crimp and full crimp grip. If you watch Paul Robinson climb you'll see he often latches holes in a chisel grip (efficient and strong to hang on) and then readjusts to a half, or much more often full crimp, to then pull so he can still push down on the hold as he gets above it. Half/full crimping is generally a lot more helpful when moving off a hold and/or locking off because it allows for a more secure grip on the hold but any move made with a half crimp can be made with an open hand crimp too. If that's true, then yes, I'd prefer to train the correct half crimp grip. I'm strongest on open, next strongest full, followed by half crimp. May 29, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. They both focus on putting all your force on your fingertips while bringing the palm of your hand closer to the wall for even more strength. Going to the gym by myself and being surrounded by incredible climbers left and right. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Jun 15, 2025 · Explore the benefits and applications of half crimp vs full crimp in textiles. This hangboard routine might be controversial, but when approached correctly it A half crimp is the preferred crimp because it spreads the load more evenly between the tendons and pulleys. Comparison of half crimp type, large (towards open hand) or small (towards full crimp) Three hold types are typically discussed in the literature: the open hand (slope), the half crimp (fingers at 90 degrees at the second joint), or full crimp (with thumb lock off). Dec 17, 2021 · That said, full crimp is trainable, though exceptionally dangerous. Question: What are the pros/cons of training a "true" half crimp? Safer? Stronger? Or is it just variances in anatomy that don't matter May 1, 2024 · When starting, avoid full-crimping until you have built enough strength that half-crimping feels good. For my final workout, I was hanging -15lbs open handed on a 13mm edge, but -50lbs half-crimped on an 18mm Aug 15, 2017 · To full crimp, place as if you are going to half crimp but wrap the thumb over top and bring the palm in toward the hold slightly. Aim to position your fingers on the hold so that the weight is distributed through the pads of your fingers and not the tips. Sep 22, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. For more on crimping and hand positions, click here. Some argue that the half crimp strength translates to full/open, but there is research that suggests that strength is specific to joint angle. Dec 4, 2020 · When the climbing becomes heavy, strive to utilize the half-crimp position. Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. The one-armed 20 mm lift uses deadlift form: Stand with your feet shoulder-width or wider. I've since more or less equalized my half crimp and open hand strengths, my numbers are roughly 120 lbs per arm @ 140 lbs body weight. For example, when can a person begin to hangboard? Gravelle says that, “it really depends on the Jun 3, 2025 · Open hand vs. Learn identification techniques and key differences. When to Use Half crimp vs. Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. Both the half crimp and full crimp feel quite natural to me, especially when on real rock. How much weight are you hanging on 20mm? Has it gotten to the point where the amount of weight you need to add to achieve results is too Oct 15, 2021 · In the sport of rock climbing, the half crimp grip finds the happy medium between the power of the full crimp grip and the sustainability of an open hand grip. Crimping ain’t easy. The first and most dangerous crimping position is when your middle knuckles on each finger are >90 degrees. It isn't dangerous if trained regularly. Nov 22, 2021 · Should you train full crimp? Avoid Long-Term Finger Injuries Avoid long-term nagging injuries to the joints, tendons, and muscles in your fingers by using the full crimp grip only when absolutely necessary. The slope grip is characterised by a flexion of the finger joints. Back 3 half crimp: Good for those with weaker pinky fingers. Watch short videos about half crimp vs full crimp from people around the world. He claims that you should rather train the half crimp, as the half crimp will make your chisel grip stronger as well, but the chisel grip will not make your half crimp grip stronger. Illustration of the slope (a), half crimp (b) and full crimp (c) grip techniques used during rock-climbing. The half crimp is Apr 7, 2024 · That's why it may be a good idea to train it separately in the half crimp. The full crimp is more suited for square-cut ledges with a recess for better finger traction. Some people even wrap their thumb over the top of each finger while crimping. This is exactly why people perform the closed/full crimp position, increased strength. Hangboarding, also known as ‘fingerboarding,’ is the best way to train your crimp strength once you’ve developed your pulleys and tendons more. Front 3 drag: Good for catching holds and using pockets. Four finger half crimp 2. . does the open crimp not translate well to half crimp? and which one is more important? Nov 9, 2022 · Half crimp: This is best ‘all rounder’ for training strength as it is arguably more transferrable than other positions. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below! 🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS Hydration and Half Crimp In a half crimp, the length of your fingers on the hold form a full bend in relation with the tips of your fingers resting on the edge of the hold but the thumb is placed to the side of the grip and isn’t used to apply pressure on the top. This distinction is hugely important because everyone says to avoid full crimping to prevent undue stress on the finger pullies. Feb 9, 2020 · Now, it’s important to know that without the change in the angle (full crimp) but with the thumb over index finger (closed hand crimp) there is a 17% increase in grip strength while not significantly increasing the risk of injury (Quaine). But training half crimp somehow made pinch projects way easier. And sure, maximum finger recruitment is something you want, but if you look like a floppy noodle on the wall your finger strength doesn’t matter. The Half Crimp is less stressing on the tendons compared to This is why most climbers use either a half crimp or full crimp when climbing. Meanwhile, bolt-on holds have evolved and are now far more user-friendly and generally suited to the half-crimp than the hideous sharp edges that we used to bone down on. ) I think the general consensus is more weight on a bigger, comfier hold is more beneficial than moving to smaller holds where the chance of injury and skin splits are higher. I assume the pinch position has a very active grip position that emulates the half crimp isometric grip. Understanding the difference between Full Crimp and Half Crimp can help you achieve better results in the kitchen and elevate your cooking skills. I think the best way to get better at half crimp is probably a combination of training it in the hangboard and consciously forcing yourself to half crimp holds. Feb 7, 2014 · The evidence is in the amount of people that have ruptured their tendons using a closed crimp compared to an open hand. Transfer to real rock The three grip positions: 1. This position brings the palm much closer to the wall than any of the hand positions before it and Mar 27, 2019 · The answer is that many people (myself included) got injured once too often from full-crimping and re-trained themselves to rely more on the half-crimp. training half crimps is effective at targeting the muscles used for open hand as well as full crimp positions with one exercise. Sustained crimping can and will damage not only your fingers but also your climbing career. Specificity 2. Higher risk than drag positions. It is also defined by the extension of the pinky finger and is one of the two ways by which a person might full crimp. Half Crimp Grip Position: The half crimp has the fingers bent slightly less than in a full crimp. Athlete and coach Christian Core recommends against training the full crimp position. Dec 14, 2016 · I've gone through 2 cycles of RCTM's repeater protocols, one beginner and one intermediate. Sep 19, 2022 · Yeah, one-arming the 6-mils would be nice, but you should probably learn the difference between a full crimp and half crimp. From what I understand from the training blogs, articles, podcasts, etc. I have been holding onto all crimp holds using half crimp according to the first definition (DIP hyperextension without the thumb) but full crimp according to the second (DIP >180 degrees regardless of thumb). The first joint is less sharply bent, and the thumb usually doesn’t wrap over the index finger. The straight pointer finger one is a open hand crimp, half crimp is when all your fingers are at 90 degrees at the second knuckle. Dec 21, 2022 · Repeat this pattern with a full crimp and then finish with the half crimp, also for three sets of 3-6-9. In a full crimp, you also use your thumb, but this position puts a high amount of stress on the annular ligaments. Nov 19, 2025 · A crimp in rock climbing is a type of climbing hold that will only fit your finger pads. The half-crimp offers the climber greater leverage when they are pulling hard. This creates a larger angle, which allows you to actively pull on the grip when moving through a wider range of motion (see image). We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Three finger drag 3. Full crimp is useful for limit projects but full crimping everything is probably going to put you at a bigger risk of injury.